Behind cabinet doors, on an existing bathroom vanity for example, is the perfect place to add storage bins.
Note: This project works best underneath vanity cabinets where there are no shelves.
List of Tools:
circular saw or hand saw
compass (to layout the curves on the sides)
List of Materials:
(1) 1 x 4 x 96” select pine board (actual dimensions are 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 96”)
(4) 2” zinc mending plates (these could be painted as well as the screw heads, to match the paint of the storage bins.
(4) #10 x 5/8 in. Zinc-Plated Flat-Head Phillips Wood Screws
(4) #10 x 5/8 in. Zinc-Plated Steel Pan-Head Phillips Wood Screws
(12) 1 1/2” finishing nails
paint of your choice
The width may vary depending on lumber chosen, make adjustments to the plans as needed.
The length of the bin will vary depending on the width of the cabinet door.
The material thickness may vary depending on lumber chosen, make adjustments to the plans as needed.
(2) Sides– 7” x 3 1/2” x 3/4”
(1) Bottom– 10 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 3/4”
(1) Front – 12” x 3 1/2” x 3/4”
1. Cut the bottom to the length of 10 1/2”
2. Cut the sides to a rough length of 7 1/2”. Layout the pattern of the curves with a pencil compass. Cut along the line of the curve with a jig saw. Sand edges with sandpaper until smooth. Nail the sides to the bottom using finishing nails. Set the nails below the surface and patch with wood filler.
3. Cut the front to a length of 12”. Nail the front in place with finishing nails. Set the nails below the surface. Patch with wood filler and sand smooth.
4. Attach 2″ mending plate with flat-head screws. Have the plate over hang the storage bin about 3/4″.
5. Attach storage bin to cabinet door with pan-head screws.
Building a decorative planter box is a great way to improve the exterior of your home and boost your home’s curb appeal. Designed to hold a variety of planting containers, this one-day DIY Project will hang around for years to come.
Note: This project is designed for 42” windows. You may need to adjust based on your windows.
Step 1: Lay out the length of the front/back (A), pickets (B), bottom supports (C), ends (D), and bottom (E) on the cedar boards. Cut the parts to length and sand the smooth faces with 120-grit sandpaper; leave the rough surface of the cedar as is.
Step 2: Lay out the pickets, smooth surface down, with the ends aligned. Space the pickets evenly (Drawing 1, Project Diagram). Place the front (A) on the pickets with the edges of the two outside pickets extending 7⁄8″ beyond each end of the front. Drill countersunk pilot holes for the screws and secure the front to the pickets.
Step 3: Turn the assembled front over. Lay out the lowest point of the arch on the center picket and the high points on the end pickets. Use a bent dowel and some spring clamps to create the arc, and trace the shape with a pencil.
Step 4: Use a jigsaw to cut the pickets to shape, sand the curved edges, and remove the pickets for finishing. Apply primer and two coats of paint to all surfaces of the pickets.
Step 5: Secure the bottom supports (C) to the inside face of the front (A) using glue and screws (Drawing 2, Project Diagram) and.
When the paint has dried, reattach the pickets to the front. Use glue and screws to attach the back and both ends to complete the box.
Step 6: Slip the bottom (E) into the box and center it between the front and back. Drive screws through the bottom into the bottom supports to secure the board. Build the Supports
Step 1: Cut four 1″×4″ boards to length for the brackets (F) and wall cleats (G).
Step 2: Print two copies of the bracket pattern (Support Bracket Full Size Pattern, Project Diagram). Use a spray adhesive to secure the pattern to the bracket blanks. Use a jigsaw to cut the brackets to shape.
Step 3: Cut two scraps of wood to 1 3⁄8″ in length. Place the scraps under one of the brackets on a work surface, set the wall cleat against the bracket, and attach the cleat to the bracket with screws (Drawing 3, Project Diagram) and. Repeat for the second bracket and wall cleat.
Finish It Up
Step 1: Unscrew the brackets from the wall cleats; paint the brackets with the same primer and paint you used for the pickets, and apply exterior wood stain to the remaining unfinished cedar parts. Re-attach the brackets to the wall cleats.
Step 2: Find the center of your window opening, then mark the location of the bracket assemblies; 10 1/4″ to the left and right of the window’s center (Drawing 3, Project Diagram). Use painter’s tape to mark the location. The top of the bracket should be 2″ below the windowsill. Hold the brackets on the wall at your marks and drill pilot holes for the screws through the wall cleats into the wall.
Squeeze silicone sealant into the pilot holes drilled into the siding, set the brackets back into position over the holes, and drive the mounting screws into the house. The silicone will ensure a watertight seal. Different sidings may require different screw selections. A deck screw is great for wood or vinyl siding; brick will require a masonry screw. See a store associate for the right screw selection for your home.
Step 4: Set the window box on the brackets, drill countersunk pilot holes, and drive the 1 5⁄8″ screws through the back into the brackets and wall cleats (Drawing 4, Project Diagram). Load up the plants in your favorite pots and add some color to your home.
Are you looking for something to do with your collection of wine corks? Creating a bathmat might be an appealing way to reuse the corks you have collected.
Non-adhesive shelf liner
Hot glue sticks / hot glue gun
175 wine corks
1. Cut each cork in half lengthwise with a sharp pocketknife. Sand the bottoms flat if any of your cuts are jagged.
2. Arrange the corks into a rectangle, flat sides down. Use a ruler or the lines on a cutting mat to make sure your configuration of corks is as close to a straight rectangle as possible. The mat displayed above is 18.5 x 30 inches (10 x 35 cork halves).
3. Measure and cut the shelf liner to size with a rotary cutter, ruler, and cutting mat.
4. Transfer the outer rows/columns of corks to the shelf liner and glue them to the topside of the liner. Apply a rectangle-shaped line of glue to the flat side of each cork, about 1/8 inch from the edge, line up the cork with the edge of the mat, and press hard. Wipe away any glue drops before it hardens fully.
5. Once your frame is in place, transfer the rest of the corks to their corresponding position on the mat. You’ll probably have to do some arranging and trading places to make all the corks fit. Then remove one cork at a time and glue it down.
A freshly painted front door can instantly boost your home’s curb appeal.
1. Remove Your Door
Before you get started, remove your front door. Use a slot screwdriver to remove the hinge pins, then remove the other half of the hinge from the door.
Remove the doorknocker, peephole, doorknob, and all other hardware from the door. Wash the door and let it dry.
2. Prep your Door
Use a quick drying wood filler to patch cracks. When it is dry, sand the filler smooth so that it is flush with the door.
3. Apply Primer
If the paint is in good condition, primer is not necessary. However, if you are painting you door a dark color, it is a good idea to use primer first.
Prime every side of the door – inside, outside, left and right edges, and the top and bottom. Let the door dry completely.
After priming, if there are still cracks, fill them with caulk Let the caulk dry and then re-prime where you caulked.
Use a fine-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface and remove any paint drips particularly in the crevices of the panels. Use an old paintbrush or a tack rag to brush off the dust.
4. Paint Your Door
Start by painting with a mangled sand brush. Paint the corners of the panels first. Work form the top panels down to the lowest. Use a roller brush to apply the paint to the raised panels, rolling with the grain of the wood. Then paint the muntins (top and then bottom), transforms (top, middle, bottom), and finish with the stiles.
Paint the door with several coats, continuing to use the angle brush first and then the roller. Remember, the darker the color, the more coats you will need.
Do you want to grow fresh herbs, but are lacking yard space. Do you have a free afternoon and basic carpentry skills? This Old House general contractor, Tom Silva, has the perfect solution: Build an all-weather raised planter for your porch or patio.
1. Cut the Legs to Length
Trim sections off both ends of a deck post to the planter’s height, leaving one end’s square section long enough to attach the planter’s sides. Make the first cut so that the longer square section measured 14½ inches, then marked 36 inches from that cut end and made the second cut. Use the first leg to mark and cut the others as shown.
2. Attach the Cleats
Cut the 1x6s and 2×2 balusters for the planter’s sides and cleats. Screw a 2×2 cleat to the inside surface of two of the longer 1x6s. Position each cleat ½ inch from the board’s bottom edge and center it lengthwise. Drill 3/32-inch pilot holes through the cleats, then secure them with 2-inch deck screws.
3. Build the Sides
The planter’s sides are made from two 16 boards butted edge to edge. Hold them together by fastening 2x2s across the joints with 2-inch deck screws as shown. For each short side, fasten a 2×2 in the center and 2 inches below the top edge to leave room for the liner’s lip. For each long side, use two evenly spaced 2x2s placed against the bottom board’s cleat.
4. Screw on the Corner Blocks
Fasten a 2×2 corner block to each end of all four sides of the planter using 2-inch deck screws. Position the blocks⅛ inch in from the ends and ½ inch up from the bottom edges of the sides. These eight corner blocks provide a solid surface for attaching the legs to the planter and also help hold the sides together.
5. Assemble the Planter
Drill three evenly spaced 3/32-inch pilot holes through each corner block. Align one side’s corner block with the inside corner of one of the legs. Drive 2½-inch screws through the corner block and into the leg. Repeat for the remaining sides and legs as shown.
6. Install the Floorboards
Cut two 1×6 floorboards to span the width of the planter. Set the floorboards onto the cleats roughly equidistant along the planter’s length. Fasten each end of both floorboards to the cleats with a 2-inch deck screw, drilling pilot holes first to reduce the chance of splitting the boards.
7. Drill Drainage Holes in the Liner
Turn the utility tub upside down, and use a drill/driver to bore six or more evenly spaced ⅜-inch-diameter holes through the bottom. These holes are necessary to allow excess water to drain from the soil.
8. Finish the Planter and Attach the Hooks
Apply deck stain to the planter. Once dry, screw hooks to each end of the planter for hanging gardening tools. Set the utility tub in place, add some clean gravel, and fill the planter with soil and your favorite herbs.
Enjoy peaceful mornings and lazy afternoons on this custom built, reinvented porch swing. Below are step-by-step directions.
Build the Bed Frame
Attach the (01) sides to the (02) ends with glue and pocket hole screws (see Figure 1). Note: Use five pocket hole screws per joint for the main frame.
Position the (03) braces so that they are flush with the (01) sides (as shown in Figure 2). Using glue and pocket hole screws, attach all of the (03) braces to the (01) sides and attach the outer (03) braces to both the (01) sides and to the (02) ends. Note: Use three pocket hole screws per joint when attaching to the (01) sides; use six pocket hole screws per joint when attaching to the (02) ends.
Sand and apply a finish to the assembly. Allow to dry per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Using screws included in the packaging, attach corner braces to the (01) sides, (02) ends, and (03) braces at each of the four inside corners.
Attach the (04) bottom to the (03) braces with 1 1/4-inch screws (see Figure 3).
Attach the Hardware
Position each lag eye bolt 5 1/2 inches in from both sides of each corner (see Figure 4). Pre-drill pilot holes to match the diameter of the screw shank (not the threads) for the lag eye bolts. Attach eight lag eye bolts to the (01)sides and (02) ends of the bed frame. When attaching the lag eye bolts, use a large screwdriver or pry bar for leverage, insert the end of the tool through the end of each lag eye bolt, and twist it into place.
Predrill pilot holes to match the diameter of the screw shank (not the threads) for the lag eye bolts, and then attach four lag eye bolts to ceiling joists, one for each corner of the bed frame. To help minimize the amount of sway, position the bolts so that they are slightly beyond the bed frame dimensions.
Attach a quick link to each lag eye bolt in the ceiling joists and to one end of each length of chain. (You’ll use one length of chain per bed frame corner.)
Hang the Bed
Position the bed frame on two sawhorses or small stepladders directly underneath the four chains.
Thread each chain through the two lag eye bolts on the corresponding corners, and attach the end of the chain to a chain link above it with a quick link. Once attached, the chains form a triangle at each corner (see Figure 4).
Adjust the chains so that the bed (with mattress) is level and no higher than standard bed height (18 to 24 inches). Note: Do not store items underneath the bed to allow clearance. We recommend no more than two large adults sitting or one large adult lying on the bed at one time.
Click here for complete project details including the cut list, lumber and supplies.